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Always check with your doctor or dermatologist before beginning any skin care regimen.

First of all, I would like to say that I am of the opinion that “SOLUTIONS USING MORE THAN 10% STRENGTH SHOULD NOT BE PERFORMED AT HOME. In most states, estheticians are licensed to perform glycolic, lactic, and other alpha hydroxy up to 30% potency.” . They can also use a Jessner’s Peel at a level of 14% and can apply up to 3 coats. Trichloroacetic (TCA) should only be performed by dermatologists or plastic surgeons. Use a licensed professional who is experienced in chemical peels. The consequences can be serious. to occure.

Clients who want a professional chemical peel/exfoliation stronger than 10% should use an 8-10% peel solution at home for two weeks before receiving a stronger chemical peel. They should also use a night cream with Retin-A (vitamin A) as an ingredient. Proper preparation will give the best results and please your customer. Remember that “pre-planning prevents poor performance.”

I would also like to point out that my intent with this article is to provide information for licensed estheticians and other skin professionals. This article is not intended for the general public. However, education is crucial for a better understanding. As a general rule, no one should use exfoliating agents on themselves, but rather inform them of a standard protocol that a licensed skin care professional would provide if this service were to be provided. (See my link to the TV show “LOS DOCTORES”).

Consult the Fitzpatrick Scale and determine if the client is an ideal candidate for a chemical peel. Allow the client to read and sign an informed consent form. This is very important. DO NOT PERFORM STRONG PEELS ON FITZPATRICK TYPES VI, V or VI. Also, know your contraindication before administering a peel. Do not perform any chemical peels on inflamed, irritated, or broken skin. The best advice I can give you is this: “WHEN IN DOUBT… DON’T DO IT”.

With that said, let’s get started.

1. Remove Makeup: A milky cleanser that you dab onto a gauze or cotton pad and glide over your skin is usually the best option. Repeat until makeup is removed. Do not use petroleum jelly due to its occlusive properties.

2. Cleanse the skin: The esthetician should thoroughly cleanse the skin with lukewarm water and a mild but effective skin cleanser. This cleanser should not be too strong, but it should be strong enough to remove dirt, debris, and sebum (oil). I recommend a gel or foaming cleanser for oily, combination, and problem skin because the surfactants help break down oil. For dry and sensitive skin, I recommend a milky cleanser or lotion. Rinse the skin with lukewarm water several times and pat the skin dry. DO NOT RUB THE SKIN.

3. Deoiling the skin: This step involves removing oil from the skin by applying 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol or acetone to the skin using gauze or a cotton pad. Be careful when using 90% isopropyl alcohol and acetone as they are very drying. I usually use 90% or acetone on oily and combination skin. Removing oil from the skin allows the exfoliation solution to absorb more evenly as the exfoliation solution does not have to go through the sebum. Allow the solution to completely evaporate before proceeding to step 4.

4. Prepare the treatment area for the peel: This is a crucial step in performing chemical peels. There is nothing worse than not being prepared. Make sure you have a neutralizing product on hand or a bowl of cold water mixed with about 3 to 4 tablespoons of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Any of these products will be a lifesaver if something goes wrong. They will neutralize the chemical peel solution, helping to prevent further skin damage. Prepare your eye pads with the standard butterfly cotton pads or the large eye pads soaked in cold water. Use a Q-tip to put a small amount of Vaseline as close to the bottom of the eye as possible and on the upper lid. This will prevent the peel solution from being absorbed. Place the protective eye pads over the client’s eyes. Give the customer a portable fan and turn it on. The fan will help ease discomfort as the chemical exfoliating agent is applied to the skin. You are now ready to apply the chemical peel agent.

5. Applying the exfoliating agent: After ensuring that the client’s eyes are protected, begin applying the exfoliating agent. Use a gauze square or large peeling swab to apply the solution. Usually you should start at the forehead and swipe. Then move down the nose and along the cheekbones, then towards the chin area. Use a small Q-tip soaked in the exfoliation solution to swipe under the eye area. NEVER APPLY PEELING AGENT TO THE UPPER PART OF THE EYE. If you are using glycolic acid; lactic acid; or an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) solution, the amount of time it remains on the skin has a direct correlation to the strength of the solution applied to the skin. In other words, a 10% solution can be left on longer than a 30%, 50% or 70% solution. The stronger the solution, the less time on the skin. Also, if this is the client’s first time having a peel, then you don’t want to leave the peel solution on for as long. In general, most AHA, glycolic, and lactic acid exfoliating solutions can be left on for up to 10 minutes. Lactic acid is the best option for dry and sensitive skin, as it tends not to be drying. Watch for increased redness and irritation. Then remove by rinsing with cold water. Rinse skin at least 3-6 times. Then use the mixture of water and baking soda to stop the chemical reaction. Dry the skin. DO NOT RUB THE SKIN.

If the peel solution is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) like salicylic acid, time is not the only factor in determining when to end the peel. You MUST look for the “frosting”. Glazing is the process of breaking down keratin in the skin. Usually the skin will turn white like frosting on a cake. One coat may be enough, sometime 2-3 will be needed. If more than one coat is needed, wait 45 seconds to 1 minute before applying additional coats. Note that you are not looking at the precipitation of salicylates. It looks like frosting, but it’s just the salicylic acid reacting with the air. The frosting will look more pinkish white. Once the frost sets in, allow it to stay on the skin for about 1-3 minutes, then rinse with cool water. DO NOT RUB THE SKIN. DRY. BHA peels cannot be neutralized. A cold towel applied to the skin is usually enough to relieve discomfort.

If the exfoliating agent is a Jessner’s solution, it should be a 14% solution. Jessner’s peel consists of 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic acid in a resorcinol solvent. This peel is strong and provides great results when used correctly. Similar to a salicylic peel, the Jessner Peel is ideal for clients who want to improve skin tone, acne, and fine lines and wrinkles. Glazing also occurs with this shell. The use of a fan is required with this peel. Wait about a minute between coats. Esthetician can usually apply up to 3 coats, while doctors can apply more and can use a higher force. Again, this exfoliation is ideal for clients who have oily or combination skin. Once the glaze appears, do not apply any more solution. Allow it to remain on the skin for approximately 3 minutes and then apply a cool towel to the skin.

If the chemical peel is a trichloroacetic acid (TCA), a doctor should administer the peel. Estheticians should not perform this peel. If you want information about this peeling, see your dermatologist or your doctor. Forgiveness.

Now that the peel has been done, what’s next? Well, in my opinion it is crucial to apply a hyaluronic serum on the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a hydrophilic (water-loving) ingredient that is non-drying. It is essential for all skin types. In fact, hyaluronic acid is found naturally in the deepest tissues of the skin. Originally discovered in a rooster’s comb, it is now produced synthetically for cosmetics. It is silky smooth and helps plump up the skin. Make sure you have a product on hand that contains it.

After you have applied the hyaluronic acid serum, apply sunscreen to the client’s skin and send them home. Your client should take home products to help in the healing process. Hyaluronic serum, a skin lightener (alpha arbutin), Retin-A, moisturizer, and most importantly, an anti-aging sunscreen with SPF 30+. Follow up with the client for the next 3 days by phone. Approximately 10 days after the peel, the client should return to the salon for a follow-up visit and facial. This is when you, the esthetician, can evaluate exfoliation. During the healing process, you want to reassure the client that what is happening to their skin is expected. Give them a take-home form that reminds the client that what they are experiencing is normal. Encourage your client to keep their skin clean and hydrated. Make sure they use plenty of moisturizer and sunscreen. Advise them to avoid prolonged sun exposure for the next month. They should not use hand brushes to abrade or speed up the peeling process. The slower the peeling process, the healthier.

Remember that peels can produce different results in any individual. It is your responsibility to obtain an informed and consent form from your client. If you thoroughly evaluate your clients and use the right tools (ie the Fitzpatrick scale), you should be able to provide great anti-aging skin care for your clients.

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